Planting garlic: Yes, you still have time

Master Gardeners are part of a network of not-for-profit associations across North America. Members share a common interest – a passion for gardening and a willingness to share (at no cost) environmentally responsible gardening knowledge within their communities. Operating under the umbrella of the British Columbia Master Gardeners, the Thompson Shuswap Master Gardeners chapter was established in 2010 and its members have volunteered 10,000 plus hours throughout the Thompson Shuswap region.

Garlic is the perfect vegetable for end-of-season planting. It’s easy to plant and requires  minimal care. Since it will be in the ground from fall until late summer choose a spot that you won’t want to plant something else in until July.

Garlic belongs to the allium family (onions, garlic, leeks, chives). Avoid planting garlic or other alliums in the same spot for at least three to four years if possible. This will reduce the chance of getting allium pests and diseases.

Buy planting garlic from a reputable seller: nursery, seed supplier, local farmers market, or local garlic grower.

Types of Garlic

Hard Neck

  • Milder flavour
  • Better suited to areas with colder winters
  • Typically has a shorter storage life than soft neck
  • Produces edible scapes
  • Common varieties include red russian, music

Soft Neck

  • Stronger flavour
  • Prefers milder winters
  • Does not produce scapes
  • The classic braided garlic
  • Common varieties include red toch, inchelium

When to Plant

Four to six weeks before the ground freezes solid so garlic has time to grow roots before winter.

You can plant garlic in the spring but do so as soon as the ground has thawed.

Note that the harvested bulbs of spring planted garlic will be smaller than fall planted garlic.

How to Plant and Care for your Garlic

Separate cloves in the bulb carefully, do not peel, plant 6cm to 10cm deep with the pointy end up .

Space 10cm to 15cm apart.

Requires six to eight hours of sun per day.

Water weekly or as required to keep soil moist.

Prefers sandy, well draining soil with added compost.

Add 10cm to 15cm of mulch before winter.

Fertilize in early spring and again in late spring using a high nitrogen fertilizer.

How and When to Harvest Garlic

Check your garlic for size by carefully removing the soil from the top of a bulb. This is done when the bottom two or three leaves are yellow. Replace the soil.

Removing the young tightly curled scapes will allow the garlic bulbs to swell. Scapes can be used in place of garlic when cooking.

Stop watering your garlic a couple weeks before harvest: this aids in the curing process as the bulbs will begin drying. Bulbs should be full size and ready to harvest when about half of the leaves are yellow.

Dig plants carefully so as not to damage the bulbs. I use a garden fork.

Curing and Storage

Remove excess soil and lay hard neck garlic to dry in a sheltered spot out of the sun for two to three weeks to cure. Good air circulation is important.

After curing hard neck garlic, remove any remaining soil and loose paper from the bulbs. Trim the roots and stalks. Store in a dry, well-ventilated spot. I keep my garlic in an open container in a closed cupboard in the kitchen. It stores well for over a year. Check your garlic occasionally and remove and use any that are sprouting. Dispose of any bad bulbs.

Clean and braid your soft neck garlic and hang to dry in a well-ventilated spot out of the sun for two to three weeks to cure.

If you are planning to plant garlic next fall, save your largest bulbs for this purpose.

Try planting a few different varieties to see what grows best in your garden.

When a cactus grows in your garden without any help, listen to what it has to say.

Valerie Boyda is a Master Gardener with the Thompson Shuswap Master Gardeners. She lives west of Kamloops with her husband and two cats on the north shore of the Thompson River. She loves gardening, photography and fishing and has a keen interest in regenerative landscaping with native plants and trees.