Master Gardeners are part of a network of not-for-profit associations throughout North America. Members share a common interest – a passion for gardening and a willingness to share (at no cost) environmentally responsible gardening knowledge within their communities. Operating under the umbrella of the British Columbia Master Gardeners, the Thompson Shuswap Master Gardeners chapter was established in 2010 and its members have volunteered 10,000 plus hours throughout the Thompson-Shuswap region.What are you doing right now to prepare for next year’s garden? Are you growing flowers or vegetables? Annuals or perennials? Sticking with the same plan, or trying something new?
Whatever your style, having a rough plan in January makes spring far less overwhelming, especially if you’re newer to gardening.
Today we are going to talk about growing from seed.
Gardening in Kamloops: Know Your Zone (and Your Yard)
Kamloops hardiness zones range from Zone 6 in areas like Dallas and Westside to the colder Zone 3 in areas such as Aberdeen and Barnhartvale.
Zone maps are helpful, but they’re not perfect. One sunny, sheltered corner of your yard might behave like Zone 6, while a windy front yard near the street acts more like Zone 5. Learning how your garden behaves over time is something experienced gardeners get better at, but don’t worry if you’re not there yet. That awareness comes naturally as you spend more time with your soil, plants, and weather.
Reading a Seed Packet (The Parts That Matter Most)
Let’s say you want to grow vegetables. Every seed packet includes a lot of information, today we’ll focus on three details:
• Seed type
• Days to maturity
• When and where to start seeds
Seed Types: What the Labels Mean
Open-pollinated seeds are naturally pollinated and usually grow true to type. These are great if you want to save seeds for future years.
Heirloom seeds are also open-pollinated. They are often older varieties passed down through generations. They are less uniform or disease-resistant, but many gardeners love their flavour and history.
Hybrid (F1) seeds are bred for specific traits like productivity or disease resistance. They grow reliably, but saved seeds won’t produce the same plant next year.
Knowing the seed type helps you decide whether seed saving is realistic and how consistent your results will be.
Days to Maturity: The Most Important Number
This is not counted from the day you sow the seed. We generally don’t want to plant outside until the fear of frost has passed. (We are going to ignore the ways you can plant before the last frost in this discussion.)
For example:
Maturity: 70 days
Last frost in Dallas tends to be around May 10
If you transplant after frost: May 10 + 70 days = about July 19 for harvest.
If Direct-sown you need extra time for germination and early growth = July 19 + 3-4 weeks
Treat these numbers as guidelines, not guarantees.
When and Where to Start Seeds
Starting seeds is exciting and sometimes frustrating. Not every seed will germinate, and that’s normal. Starting a few extra seeds ensures you will have the plants you want, and maybe some extras for trading! Most seeds take 7–10 days to sprout, plus another 7–14 days to develop true leaves. This puts you at roughly 2–4 weeks from seed to transplant-ready plant.
If your last frost is May 10:
May 10 minus 4 weeks = start before April 12 for indoors.
As for where to start seeds, work with what you have. A sunny window works for some people; grow lights work for others. I don’t have a sunny window, so I use grow lights and heat mats in my laundry room. Read your seed packets and choose a setup that fits your space and budget.
Gardening isn’t about perfection. It’s about learning a little more each season and adjusting as you go.
Corrine Giesbrecht is an avid gardener who forgot she had an article due for January. Big thanks to Valerie and Sumer for proofreading with a looming deadline.